Emerging Designers Prepare for New York Fashion Week
As New York Fashion Week approaches, several emerging designers are preparing to showcase their latest collections. These designers bring unique perspectives and creative visions that reflect their backgrounds, inspirations, and personal stories.
Rùadh: A Fusion of Heritage and Innovation
Jac Cameron, the founder of Rùadh, has a deep connection to denim. Born in Glasgow, she moved to New York City at age 20, where she began her career interning for Marc Jacobs. Over the years, she has worked with renowned brands such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Madewell, Calvin Klein, and AYR. Her latest project, Rùadh, is named after the Gaelic word for “red,” but her roots lie in indigo.
Cameron’s focus on ethical sourcing and sustainable manufacturing led her to launch Rùadh directly to consumers in October 2024. The brand features handwoven knits and sturdy leather outerwear, set to be stocked at premium retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Net-a-porter. For her NYFW debut, Cameron plans to elevate her denim collection, emphasizing “timeless utility” through strong silhouettes inspired by her Scottish heritage.
Her presentation will feature the Cameron family tartan and a set designed by interior designer Madelynn Hudson and florist Rana Kim, transporting guests from TriBeCa to the verdant Highlands. A campaign film shot at an 18th-century castle will also be screened, showcasing Rùadh’s identity and future direction.
Mel Usine: A Blend of History and Modernity
Stephen Biga, the founder of Mel Usine, studied fashion design and culture & media at The New School, focusing on identity politics and experimental cinema. He launched Mel Usine in 2024, drawing inspiration from European folklore and medieval romanticism.
His debut collection includes the Philippa top and the Veronique gown, which features lace and silver metallic knit resembling chainmail. Biga emphasizes the contrast between appearance and feel, aiming to create pieces that look one way but feel another. Prices start at $595, with special pieces going above $5,000.
While he doesn’t have stockists yet, Biga plans to bolster sales through direct channels. He is eager to see the industry’s reaction to Mel Usine, particularly from his peers. “The most important element to all of this for me is the world-building,” he said, declaring that Mel Usine is ready to exist in the world now.
Heirlome: Celebrating Mexican Heritage
Stephanie Suberville, the founder of Heirlome, grew up in Monterrey, Mexico, and attended Parsons in New York. She has worked at brands like Rag & Bone and Elizabeth and James, eventually becoming creative director at Argent. Heirlome, cofounded with her husband Jeffrey, reflects her Spanish cultural heritage.
Each season, Suberville collaborates with local Mexican artists, reinterpreting their work as placement prints in her relaxed evening wear and sharp tailoring. She aims to support artisans without competing with them. Katie Holmes and Angelina Jolie are among her fans, and the line is available at 34 points of sale internationally.
Suberville’s first formal presentation will be intimate, featuring two models. She hopes to showcase the handwork and tell the story of the artisans. Her spring collection will include a father-daughter duo whose floral designs were reinterpreted in crochet.
Zimo: Bridging East Asian Identity and Youth Culture
Zimo Yan, a SCAD graduate, worked at 3.1 Phillip Lim before moving to Shanghai, where she gained experience in production and global markets. She founded Zimo in 2021, blending her East Asian identity with references to ’90s youth culture.
Zimo focuses on “documentary wear,” using deadstock materials and overlooked objects to create garments that allow people to “wear their memories.” Her spring 2026 collection includes deconstructed dresses made from vintage towels and soccer jerseys adorned with florals and sequins.
Zimo’s pricing ranges from $200 to $1,800, aiming to remain accessible while reflecting artisanal work and sustainable processes. While the brand has limited wholesale distribution, Yan focuses on e-commerce and pop-up experiences in New York.
Amir Taghi: Classic Sportswear with a Refined Edge
Amir Taghi, an Oscar de la Renta alum, founded his namesake label just before the pandemic. His client is a real woman who values clothes that serve her while expressing her identity. Taghi’s focus is on classic sportswear with a refined air, inspired by his Persian roots and Southern upbringing in Houston.
His spring collection brings together the glamorous style of Iranian songstress Googoosh with the clean lines of American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. Think angular jackets, harem pants, tapestry sweaters, and day dresses with full skirts in a brown and navy palette.
Taghi waited to show on the official NYFW calendar until his business was on solid footing. Press previews will be held at the WSA building downtown, and he looks forward to welcoming attendees into his world.
Dwarmis: Caribbean Warmth Infused with American Sportswear
Dwarmis Concepcion, born and raised in Santo Domingo, developed a feel for textiles early. Her mother predicted she’d work in fashion, and her aunt, a musician in Latin America’s first all-female merengue band, taught her about rhythm. Mentees like Tory Burch, Ulla Johnson, and Rachel Comey influenced her taste for American sportswear.
Dwarmis is the synthesis of that training infused with Caribbean warmth. Her spring collection will emphasize set dressing, featuring teal sculpted bustiers and languid wide-leg trousers. Airy, pleated fabrics with subtle sheen will catch the light while dancing.
Dwarmis is exclusively available online, but Concepcion is looking to attract retailers during NYFW. She values the interactive component of meeting clients in the fitting room and is proud to represent Latine designers.
Jamie Okuma: Honoring Indigenous Heritage
Jamie Okuma, born in Glendale, Calif., and currently residing on the La Jolla Indian Reservation, comes from a line of female makers. Her grandmother was a painter, and her mother, Sandra, was a graphic artist at MCA records. Okuma started her career while in high school and later attended the Institute of American Indian Art.
Her quilted and handbeaded couture is collected by national museums like The Smithsonian and The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Affordable ready-to-wear includes caftans, sheaths, and casual separates with Indigenous prints under $600.
Okuma is the first Native American to join the Council of Fashion Designers of America and its official fashion week calendar. She will present her spring collection digitally, honoring her identity while offering a modern, wearable expression of her culture.
Taottao: Playful Rebellion and Cultural Fusion
Yitao Li, who earned her BFA at FIT, completed foreign exchange programs at Central Saint Martins and Polimoda. She worked as a design intern with brands like Thom Browne and Monse before returning to Shenzhen to focus on her solo endeavor, Taottao.
Taottao evokes “playful rebellion,” balancing sensuality with subtle loudness. Its signatures include anime-inspired prints and fabric manipulation, such as fusing denim with lace. The brand appeals to those who embrace individuality and aren’t afraid to stand out.
Taottao’s spring collection features plaid and bows, with prices ranging from $70 to $400. Li plans to expand partnerships with specialty retailers that share her niche community.
