Chanel Highlights Artistry at Le19M Tokyo Exhibition

PARIS– The Le19M craftsmanship hub from Chanel is set to arrive inTokyoan exhibit that brings together the expertise of its specialized workshops in Paris with the craftsmanship of Japanese and French artists and artisans.

The 19M Tokyo Gallery, set to open for visitors on Tuesday, highlights the significance of craftsmanship amid AI advancements, generational shifts, and discussions on the worth of luxury items, as the brand gets ready for its inaugural presentation by new artistic director Matthieu Blazy.

The event also emphasizes the distinctiveness ofChanel, which began purchasing some of its specialized vendors in 1985 to protect their expertise – typically when the owners were retiring.

It currently oversees a network of 60 manufacturers, including the “métiers d’art” houses under the 19M label, as well as production facilities located in France, Italy, Scotland, Spain, Thailand, Cambodia, and India.

“Across the globe, all these individuals have one thing in common: a love for handicraft and the skill involved in it,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS, to the Muara Digital Team.

The Tokyo showcase represents just the second occasion that Le19M has ventured beyond France, after a stay in Dakar, Senegal, in 2023 to align withthe high-end brand’s Art of Crafts show. Following a second screening of that collection in Tokyo, Chanel chose to strengthen its connection with local artists.

“It turned out to be one of our most successful performances: Our clients were thrilled, the media reaction was positive, and it led to impressive sales in the stores. It marked a significant shift for us in Japan,” Pavlovsky said.

Chanel enlisted a group of notable figures to shape the “Beyond Our Horizons” section of the exhibition: director and writer Momoko Andô; editor-in-chief of Casa Brutus, Yoichi Nishio; Shinichiro Ogata, founder and creative director of the multidisciplinary design studio Simplicity; curator Kayo Tokuda, and Aska Yamashita, artistic director of Chanel’s embroidery company Montex.

Looking to the Future

Among the 30 individuals chosen are Xavier Veilhan, the French contemporary artist whocreated multiple sets for Chanel high fashion showsin partnership with former creative director Virginie Viard, and Akiko Ishigaki, a Japanese artist known for revitalizing traditional textile methods and restoring ancestral clothing on the tropical island of Iriomote.

Other highlights include various heirs from renowned, family-owned Japanese companies. Zengoro Eiraku leads a Kyoto-based pottery business with a 500-year history, and Ryo Kojima is the 10th-generation head of the lantern manufacturer Kojima Shoten. Some of the artists and craftsmen worked with Le19M on their designs.

“It’s amazing to witness how collaborating with artists and artisans, particularly those connected to Japanese culture, which is known for its strong emphasis on elegance and accuracy, can expand the limits for the fashion houses. The outcomes are remarkable, and in my opinion, they genuinely showcase Chanel’s perspective on design,” Pavlovsky said.

“Our goal is consistently finding the intersection between a designer’s vision and time-honored expertise. These abilities have been handed down through generations, yet they must continue to develop in order to focus on the future, rather than remaining confined to a past that is no longer applicable,” he added.

The complimentary exhibition will be on display until October 20 at the Mori Arts Center Gallery and the Tokyo City View indoor observation deck located on the 52nd floor of Mori Tower within the Roppongi Hills urban complex.

It will also showcase a 100th anniversary retrospective of embroiderer Lesage, marking its first appearance abroad. It includes a range of intricately decorated garments from renowned designers such as Chanel, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, and Schiaparelli, along with notable pieces from Lesage’s archive of 75,000 samples, which it claims is the world’s most extensive collection of high-quality embroidery.

A third section, created by ATTA – Atelier Tsuyoshi Tane Architects – acquaints visitors with the expertise of Le19M.

In a world where craftsmanship is becoming less common, not just in the arts but also in architecture, it’s essential to create places like Le19M that celebrate and maintain these traditions,” Tane stated. “This installation represents a dedication to showcasing the importance of handcrafted work and making sure these skills and knowledge are handed down to future generations.

Talking to Gen Z

Emphasizing the human element is particularly crucial as Gen Z consumers cast doubt on the true value of luxury items due to rising costs, and following a surge in viral TikTok videos from Chinese manufacturers asserting that many European luxury products are actually produced in their facilities.

“There’s a significant amount of talk about pricing at the moment, and I see why. However, I believe there’s frequently a misunderstanding regarding the level of skill and artistry that goes into the work,” Pavlovsky stated.

As the cost of a Chanel Medium Classic bag has nearly doubled from 2019 to 2025, he has tried to provide further details about its production process andallowed access to one of the brand’s leather product manufacturing facilitiesfor the first time in France

As the cost of raw materials has increased, leading to higher inflation, it has also become more expensive to recruit staff due to a persistent lack of qualified workers in the luxury industry.

“To be honest, if these higher costs lead to improved conditions for the individuals who cultivate our raw materials and work in the earlier stages of the supply chain, that’s a positive outcome. This sector remains one of the few where machinery hasn’t taken over the human element, as a significant amount of work is still done manually, which means we can’t cut down on our production expenses,” Pavlovsky stated.

One of the functions of Le19M has been to bring new talent into the industry. Launched in 2021, its office located on the edge of Paris accommodates 700 staff within a distinctive structure created by acclaimed architect Rudy Ricciotti.

The website features embroiderers Lesage and Montex; shoemaker Massaro; expert in feathers and flowers Lemarié; milliner Maison Michel; pleater Lognon; grand flou atelier Paloma, and goldsmith Goossens, along with the lingerie and swimwear brand Eres.

It has attracted 180,000 visitors so far. Although exhibitions are the main attraction, the site has also hosted over 5,000 visitors during its open days, including 1,600 students from local schools who may feel nervous about entering Chanel’s headquarters in central Paris.

“Chanel, by its very essence, may appear unattainable for many. However, through the relationships we’ve established via the Galerie and Le19M—working with schools and community organizations—we have made significant progress, and I’ve witnessed some of those same young individuals return to participate in the workshops,” Pavlovsky mentioned.

As Blazy prepares for his debut on October 6 at Paris Fashion Week, the executive is even more dedicated to bringing in a new generation of artisans to support the designer’s vision.

What we’re accomplishing is aimed at incorporating the high fashion house into today’s world,” he stated. “It must be based on the current reality. We can only keep succeeding if we remain connected to our surroundings and involve people.