Paul Tazewell, a native of Akron, filled Cartwright Hall at Kent State University on September 18 with approximately 650 attendees who were excited to learn about his acclaimed career in costume design and his dedication to working with students.
One of the main subjects of the evening was ‘Wicked,’ specifically Tazewell’s Academy Award-winning costume designs from the first film, as well as costumes that will soon appear in ‘Wicked: For Good,’ set for release on November 21.
“It was a remarkable experience for me, different from anything I’ve encountered before, having access to so many talented creators, costume designers, and being able to work with (director) John Chu and (actresses) Cynthia Erivo, Ariana Grande, Michelle Yeoh, and many others,” noted Tazewell, who appreciates the teamwork involved.
Tazewell, 61, became the first African American to receive an Academy Award for costume design.
“That moment, the narrative, and the recognition I received for my efforts were incredibly significant. Each time I reflect on it, I find myself in disbelief. It truly highlights all the motivations behind what I do,” he said.
At the “Wicked” premiere, his creations gained unprecedented public attention.
I worked with prominent organizations, had my image featured in promotional campaigns, and, most importantly, saw my Black face connected with the uplifting message of creativity and imagination on the scale of a grand motion picture,” he stated. “It was an extraordinary year of recognition, one that conveyed, ‘yes, we see you.’
Tazewell, who has been active for 35 years, has also received a BAFTA Award, Critics Choice Award, Costume Designer Guild award, NAACP Image Award, and an Innovator Award from the African American Film Critics Association for his contributions to “Wicked.”
So what has life been like for him since he won his first Oscar in March?
Actually, it has transformed me internally because of the recognition. I believe it’s a form of approval from the public and those who have witnessed my work and keep engaging with it, appreciating what I’ve created,” Tazewell stated. “The exposure has offered greater motivation for others, and that certainly reinforces why I’m here at Kent State. I simply hope to keep inspiring individuals, particularly young people, but everyone, on how to perceive stories and their impact on lives.
In a remarkable year for Tazewell, his Oscar victory was soon followed by his second Tony Award, for “Death Becomes Her,” in June. His first Tony came from “Hamilton” in 2016, marking his 21st Broadway production.
Controlled discussion at Kent State
KSU fashion graduate Aleah Wright, a freelance writer specializing in fashion and beauty who interviewed Tazewell for Essence magazine, served as the moderator during Tazewell’s evening speech, which earned him a standing ovation upon his arrival.
Tazewell has created 28 Broadway productions, starting with “Bring in ‘Da Noise, Bring in ‘Da Funk” in 1996.
Many of my initial shows focused on people of color, or more precisely, they were shows about people of color in street settings,” Tazewell stated. “This kept me within a niche that was relatable for producers and continued until ‘Hamilton.’
Tazewell emphasized that both his passions and his capacity to imagine and create new worlds are extensive. Following “Hamilton,” he was invited to work on the film “West Side Story” directed by Steven Spielberg, and subsequently, “Wicked.”
It has kept expanding,” Tazewell said regarding his range of work. “I believe it’s the assumptions of others that tend to confine you.
Exploring characters’ feelings via their clothing choices
When crafting the outfits for Cynthia Erivo’s Elphaba and Ariana Grande’s Glinda, Tazewell intentionally selected elements that paid homage to the 1939 film “The Wizard of Oz” and included subtle references to the “Wicked” stage production, all while developing an original, magical realm for the “Wicked” movie series.
“My primary goal was to create a realistic portrayal for these two young women that matches their emotional state and the factors contributing to that emotional journey. So their emotional journey doesn’t end; in fact, in many respects, it’s only just starting,” Tazewell said in the second film.
When Tazewell creates, he emphasizes the emotions of the characters that fuel the narrative, aiming to enable viewers to see themselves within the story.
At the Kent State University Museum, which arranged Tazewell’s visit, the original outfits worn by Elphaba and Glinda during their trip to the Emerald City are showcased in the museum’s entrance area. These items, borrowed from the NBCUniversal Archives & Collections until November 9, include a detailed black dress with a pointed hat for Elphaba and a pink, frilly outfit for Glinda.
For Tazewell, ensuring that Elphaba’s black outfits were visually striking was essential. He found inspiration in nature — such as the gills on the underside of mushrooms that resembled tiny pleats and fungi that appeared like ruffles — to develop texture for her attire.
“I was constantly wondering, ‘how can I make this woman who is always in black as beautiful as the one in pink and glittering? How do you find that balance?'” he said.
For Elphaba, her extended black dress, black hat, and cape—appearing as if part of her body—form her “superhero shape” when she first uses her powers to fly in “Defying Gravity.”
The designer provided a glimpse of one of Glinda’s outfits in “Wicked: For Good” that features a blend of pink and green edging arranged in a Fibonacci spiral inspired by nature — a recurring style feature in several of Glinda’s wardrobe pieces.
In the second movie, Glinda is portrayed as a fairy princess who has acquired significant influence: “She still retains that touch of pink but has also evolved into a politician and propagandist within the realm of Emerald City,” Tazewell mentioned.
Paul Tazewell’s heritage, ties to Akron
Tazewell grew up in Akron, one of four sons born to Barbara and Joseph Tazewell Jr. His family was artistic and placed a strong emphasis on education, creativity, social advancement, and the importance of self-worth, as he mentioned.
“I originated from dedicated Black individuals, two generations removed from slavery, who moved from Florida, Mississippi, and Virginia to Ohio in pursuit of a more fulfilling life,” he stated.
Tazewell’s mother was a painter and a teacher of the French language. His father served as a bass singer in his church choir, and his grandfather played a role in constructing the Akron Urban League.
Under the guidance of his mother, who served as his initial teacher, Tazewell developed skills in painting, drawing, and sewing at a young age. During his time at Perkins Junior High and Buchtel High School, he focused on studying vocal arts and dance, while also being involved in choir, orchestra, theater productions, and musical performances.
At 16, he played the main character in Buchtel’s version of “The Wiz,” a musical where he eventually received an Emmy in 2015 for his costume design in “The Wiz! Live” on NBC.
The 1982 graduate of Buchtel was very active in Buchtel’s arts program and also collaborated with the Goodyear Community Theater. During his high school years, he visited the Stratford Festival in Ontario, Canada, and went to Broadway to watch performances and attend dance classes.
It was a very affluent life,” Tazewell remarked. “There was just enough to allow a small-town boy, a small-town individual, to get involved and become part of it.
“This route brought me to theater and ultimately into costume design. However, my real form of expression comes through character,” he stated.
Work with KSU students
Tazewell, who collaborated with fashion students in the design studio on September 18 and with theater costume designers on September 19, stated that guiding students “is what I’m all about. It’s one of my top priorities.”
“It was wonderful to interact with students, and it’s truly a major focus for me to contribute in this manner and to support and motivate emerging artists,” Tazewell mentioned during a press event prior to his public speech.
Tazewell, who pursued studies in costume design at the North Carolina School of the Arts and New York University, encourages students in the fields of fashion and costume design to recognize that their profession will require significant effort, to maintain their enthusiasm, and to remain authentic to their abilities.
“I dedicated seven years to studying costume design before I felt confident enough to work as a professional costumer,” he said.
Tazewell also mentioned that he wishes students discover their happiness in the everyday process of design: “I dedicate all my effort to each project I undertake and hope that I can act as a model for this dedication.”
Interesting initiatives and future plans for Tazewell
The interest in Tazewell’s creations extends into the fashion industry. He created multiple outfits for the 2025 Met Gala, such as singer Janelle Monae’s structural outfit made with Thom Browne; Chappell Roan’s recycled, pink patchwork suit and cape, and Debbie Allen’s specially designed red dress and hat.
His future endeavors involve creating costumes for the play “Anna Christie,” which will debut Off-Broadway in November, directed by Thomas Kail and featuring his wife, Michelle Williams. Tazewell is also responsible for costume design for “Joe Turner’s Come and Gone,” set to open on Broadway in the spring, under the direction of Allen.
An arts and dining writer named Kerry Clawson can be contacted at 330-996-3527 or via email at kclawson@thebeaconjournal.com.
This piece first was published in the Akron Beacon Journal:Paul Tazewell discusses ‘Wicked,’ his love for guiding students, and his connections to Akron while at Kent State
