I have visited the Gunflint Trail every year for the last eight years, attracted by its amazing hiking paths, lakes so clear they reflect the scenery above, and entry to the peaceful Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. It’s also a place with excellent dining options if you know where to find them (hi there, Poplar Haus walleye chowder).
For me, this now includes Big Back Eats, a new food cart located in a lot opposite Trail Center Lodge. It is available for food entrepreneurs and is part of a northern Minnesota initiative aimed at supporting the Oglala Lakota tribe from South Dakota’s Pine Ridge Reservation.
Launched in mid-June, the food stall highlights global and Indigenous-inspired dishes including Korean corn dogs and Jamaican jerk sandwiches. One item you absolutely must try is the strawberry shortcake served on fry bread ($6). The preparation is perfectly delicious, with the fry bread light and fluffy inside, cooked to a nice golden color. Covered with juicy strawberries in syrup and portions of whipped cream, it made for a sweet conclusion to days spent hiking and unwinding along the trail.
The booth is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Tuesdays and Wednesdays; visit Big Back Eats’ social media accounts for the most recent seasonal information. 7611 Gunflint Trail,bit.ly/BigBackEats
The latest restaurant at Lutsen Mountains focuses on a cozy chalet atmosphere. Featuring comfortable seating, natural wood elements, and large windows offering scenic views of the mountains and autumn foliage, we didn’t require anything else.
It was an added benefit that the owners of Charlie’s Alpine Bistro have put effort into a menu that elevates typical dishes. We visited the location south of Grand Marais on our way to the Gunflint Trail during breakfast time. Options included Belgian waffles, lox bagels, egg plates, and sandwiches. The Benedict with hash browns ($14) became the most popular choice. It features the traditional poached eggs and hollandaise sauce, but the kitchen adds vegetables through avocado toast, heirloom tomatoes, and pickled shallots, giving it a California-inspired twist on this classic dish.
Breakfast is available from 7 to 11 a.m. every day, while dinner (featuring burgers, pastas, fish, steak, and chops) is served from 3 to 10 p.m. The place opened in August, taking the spot of the well-known Papa Charlie’s, which was lost in a fire in 2023.
467 Ski Hill Road, Lutsen, 218-663-7281,bit.ly/CharliesAlpineBistro
The newest addition from the well-known Duluth Grill group, this restaurant located at the southern part of the city next to a gas station focuses on chicken tenders and fried chicken sandwiches in a quick-service environment.
Select from approximately half a dozen sandwiches served on bouncy brioche buns, ranging from a straightforward, no-nonsense mix of lettuce, mayo, and pickles to the Nashville Hot option. The one we think has the potential to turn into a cult favorite is the Cluckin’ Dill-icious ($10). This sandwich delivers an extra boost of flavor and tanginess with dill pickles and dill aioli. The fried chicken thigh is well-seasoned with a spicy kick that fans of a particular chicken sandwich from a well-known fast-food chain with a crown emblem will appreciate. For a little more money, you can get crinkle-cut fries cooked in “all-natural beef fat.”
This is a convenient stop if you’re looking to explore a new local place without deviating much from your travel plan on your road trip.
231 North Central Avenue, Duluth, 218-206-6684,chickenandwhat.com
After years of building a reputation by selling breads, cakes, cookies, and bars at local farmer’s markets and via her wholesale operation, baker and owner Hana Crosby launched a bakery and coffee shop this summer in downtown Grand Marais. Business is thriving, as evidenced by the long lines outside.
The bakery is famous for its four-layer carrot cake. We didn’t manage to get a slice on our first visit, as it sells out quickly. However, thanks to friends who reside in Grand Marais, we were given this helpful suggestion: Try the carrot cake cookie.
We went back to the bakery a few days later as we were leaving Gunflint and got a piece of carrot cake (the final one!). It lived up to the expectations. However, you should also include the cookie in your order.
The cream sandwich cookie ($4.25) fulfills the desire for carrot cake — from the fresh grated carrots in the soft, spiced oatmeal cookie to the cream cheese frosting in between. Crosby mentioned that the cookie was inspired by her husband, who enjoys a good sandwich, whether sweet or savory. “Carrot cake is very popular on the North Shore,” she noted. “Transforming it into a cookie makes it convenient to eat while on the move.”
16 Wisconsin Street, Grand Marais, 218-370-1417,crosbybakery.com
Floral arrangements featuring messages like “congratulations” and “welcome to the neighborhood” filled the air during our visit to the second location of Duluth’s Phoholic a few days after it opened. Situated at the northern part of the city, the new establishment carries on the popular restaurant’s tradition, offering Vietnamese noodle soups and salads.
Looking over the menu, we observed dishes that are only available at specific locations. You’ll need to visit the original spot to get a bowl of bun bo Hue, whereas at the new location, you can find items like mini-Vietnamese crepes. These are also known as banh xeo or sizzling pancakes, and they get their yellow color from turmeric. They are served hot, accompanied by herbs, spicy and sweet dipping sauces, and lettuce for making wraps.
The small portions are designed to be shared ($16, perfect for four people) and serve as a great choice to order before the main dishes, which at our table featured a steaming bowl of pho. As the restaurant’s name suggests, this classic dish is what brings customers back.
1623 London Road, Duluth, 218-481-7595,phoholicduluth.com
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