The Memories of Peonies
The scent of peonies immediately takes me back to my childhood home in Western North Carolina and my mother’s garden. Her bed of peonies was a source of pride and joy every spring. Those delicate white, pink, and rose-colored blooms, along with their heavenly scent, are treasured memories.
While peonies can be tricky to grow in the Deep South, if you want to add them to your garden, fall is the best time to plant them. The cooler weather allows them to become acclimated and establish strong roots before the summer heat hits. Learn when to plant peonies and the best varieties for Southern gardens.
Understanding Peony Varieties Suitable for the South
Peonies generally perform best in cooler growing zones in the Upper and Middle South. However, if you live in Mississippi or south Georgia, there are still varieties that you can enjoy.
Herbaceous Peonies
Herbaceous peonies are perennials that emerge in the spring and then the foliage dies to the ground in late fall. Most originated in Asia and are derived from Paeonia lactiflora. These peonies can be placed in the garden as a specimen plant or in mass and make excellent cut flowers. Most garden peonies don’t tolerate excessive heat and humidity well, especially during bloom. If you live in warmer growing zones, select early-blooming varieties.
Recommended varieties for Southern gardens are:
- Festiva Maxima (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Festiva Maxima’): A very fragrant, early-bloomer with double, white petals with prominent crimson flakes on a few central petals. Lasts well after cutting.
- Sarah Bernhardt (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’)*: Blooming later in the season, it has dark rose-pink double flowers. The flower heads are heavy and require support in the garden.
- Kansas (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Kansas’)*: Fragrant, early to mid-season bloomer with bright, clear red double flowers. A dependable bloomer, the flowers do not fade during the season.
- Shirley Temple (*Paeonia lactiflora ‘Shirley Temple’): An early bloomer with double light rose blooms that fade to white. Blooms are exceptionally large, reaching 8 inches in diameter.
Tree Peonies
Tree peonies are also herbaceous peonies derived from Paeonia lactiflora but classified as Paeonia x suffruticosa. These peonies present as erect and coarsely branched, flowering, deciduous shrubs that grow up to 6.5 ft. tall. Blooming in mid- to late spring, a mature tree peony can produce 75 to 100 large blooms during its two-month flowering period. It can be challenging to grow in warmer zones because it requires a winter chilling period to reliably produce blooms in the spring.
Recommended varieties for Southern Gardens are:
- Rimpo (Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Rimpo Peony’)*: The red or purple-black double petals encircle gold stamens. Blooming from late spring to early summer, the peony can reach a height and width of 7 feet.
- Shima Nishiki (Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Shima Nishiki’)*: The plant can produce red or white flowers, but most are red and white striped. A smaller tree peony reaching only 3 to 4 feet, the blooms are 6 to 8 inches in diameter.
- Cup of Shining Night (Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Cup of Shining Night’)*: Growing up to 6 feet in height and width, this tree peony produces semi-double dark red or maroon blooms with dark flares. Hardy stems create a large, airy plant.
Itoh (Intersectional) Peonies
Itoh, or intersectional peonies (Paeonia x Itoh Series), are crosses between herbaceous peonies and tree peonies. They are more tolerant of heat and humidity than herbaceous hybrids, and most grow well in USDA hardiness zones 6-9. Itoh peonies produce long-lasting blooms that can reach 8 inches in diameter on strong stems. The plants die to the ground in the winter but emerge with lush, dark green foliage and dozens of yellow, coral, pink, red, or white blooms over a six-week period.
Recommended varieties for Southern Gardens are:
- Bartzella (Paeonia (Intersectional hybrid) x ‘Bartzella’)*: Large bright yellow double blossoms with a slight red center stain and a slightly spicy scent. The plant reaches 3 feet tall at maturity.
- Keiko (Paeonia (Intersectional hybrid) x ‘Keiko’)*: Produces large, semi-double to double, lightly fragrant flowers on strong stems above a compact mound of dark green foliage. The dark lavender-pink petals mature and fade to a soft pink, revealing a cluster of yellow stamens in the center.
- White Emperor (Paeonia (Intersectional hybrid) x ‘White Emperor’)*: Growing to 24-36 inches tall at maturity, it produces semi-double white flowers with light purple flares and blooms early in the season.
Optimal Planting Time for Peonies in the South
You will get the best results if you wait to plant peonies when soil temperatures consistently fall below 50 degrees. The colder temperatures will send the plant into full dormancy and reset growth buds. If you live in the Upper South, plant them in October before the ground freezes. Middle and Lower South gardeners have a bit more time and can plant into November and early December.
Site Selection and Soil Preparation
Since temperatures are a factor, choose a planting location with full morning sun and dappled afternoon shade to help keep the soil cooler. Since peonies don’t enjoy transplanting, select a site where they can “settle in” for at least 3 or 4 years.
Peonies like fertile soil, rich in organic matter. If you have heavy clay soil, double-dig lots of compost into the soil to help improve drainage. Take the time to have the soil tested because peonies prefer a neutral pH, but will tolerate slight acidity.
Planting Peonies: Step-by-Step Guide
Most peonies are sold bare-root. Once your garden soil has been amended, use a garden spade to dig a shallow hole. If the peony is in a container, the hole should never be deeper than the container.
The roots have eyes or buds that should be positioned just 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. In warmer zones, they can be planted even more shallowly, just 1/2 to 1” below the soil surface. Planting too deeply will reduce the number of blooms.
Space the plants around 24 inches apart for adequate airflow between them after foliage appears in the spring.
Cover the roots with soil, water deeply, and add mulch about two inches thick.
Continue watering every 10 days unless there is adequate rainfall to help the plant establish deep roots.
Patience is a Virtue
New or transplanted peonies may not bloom until their third year. They like to take their time to settle in, go through a couple of chilling winters, and test your patience until they are ready to put on a show.
Care and Maintenance of Peonies in the South
Peonies need the most moisture in the spring as they emerge from dormancy and again in the fall as they set next year’s eyes along the roots. The soil should be kept evenly moist with about one inch of water each week from rainfall and/or irrigation.
If you see flower production decline, you can apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer after the bloom period and again in late summer around the dripline of the plants. If you have planted them in fertile soil and mulch with compost, they probably won’t require any fertilization at all.
Deadhead spent blooms by cutting the flower stalks down to just above a strong leaf. While in cold climates the foliage dies back naturally each fall, you may need to help force peonies into dormancy in the Lower South. Cut all types of peonies back to the ground in November.
Common Challenges and Solutions
Botrytis blight and mildew can be troublesome for peonies thanks to the heat and humidity in the South. If you see diseased or wilted stems, remove them promptly to prevent the spread. Dispose of the stems in a plastic bag in the trash. If the problems continue, use a weekly spray of fungicide following the product directions. Always clean up the peony beds well in the fall to help prevent reinfection next year.
Pests like thrips, mealybugs, and beetles can be taken care of with neem oil or organic pesticides. Ants that love the nectar of peony blooms are a bit aggravating but harmless.
If you have planted taller varieties, consider staking them to protect them from brisk winds. Mulch the garden bed well in colder zones to help prevent roots from freezing.
If your peonies are not thriving after a few years, consider digging them up in the fall and replanting so the roots are not too deep, or moving them to a different location.
Don’t cut too many flowers from each plant for inside arrangements, or you won’t have as many blooms next year.
