You’ve Never Seen a Chronograph Like This Before

Whether you’re a supporter of their timepieces or not, no one can denyMINGof following the current

One of the most creative watch brands in existence today, and possibly of all time, the name-brand creation of designer and photographer Ming Thein is always evolvingadvancing the limits of horologywith its distinctive styles and creative methods.

This month signifies the eighth anniversary of MING, and to commemorate the occasion, the brand has introduced its newest chronograph, the 57.04 Iris. However, this timepiece is different from any chronograph MING has created previously. In fact, it stands out as something entirely unique compared to any chronograph from any other brand.

I spent a few days with the Iris before its launch, and I have some opinions on what could be MING’s most adventurous watch yet.

A lot going on

When I first laid eyes on the Iris, I wasn’t sure where to focus. This timepiece is quite overwhelming. MING established its reputation through simplicity — the first watch in the brand’s new permanent collection, which launched earlier last year, is literally named “The Minimalistbut the Iris seems to me like a very extravagant watch.

Certainly, it remains undeniably a MING, featuring a dial without any text or conventional markings, with the signature floating indices laser-etched and filled with luminescence on the underside of the sapphire crystal. However, aside from that and the strap choices—the current (and outstanding) MING Universal Bracelet and a well-known goat leather strap crafted by Jean Rousseau, complete with Alcantara lining and MING’s tuck buckle—this one feels quite, quite different from any other MING I’ve come across.

I’ll begin with the most noticeable attention-grabbing element: the dial. This still seems quite in line with the brand, as MING has previously created many striking and innovative dials (for evidence, check myreview of the incredible 20.01 Series 3). However, this seems even more attention-grabbing than any previous MING dial.

The face is curved, featuring a bowl-shaped edge that rises to touch the crystal around the perimeter. The brass base has a multi-phase finish that continuously, and I mean without pause, shifts color based on the light and how it’s viewed. It’s hard to determine what color the face truly is. When worn on the wrist, it constantly transitions from purple to blue to pink to green — it’s quite impressive and makes a strong impression. This is a timepiece that draws attention.

The dial features radial lines that extend from the center. These lines contribute additional visual energy to the dial, but they serve a purpose beyond aesthetics. There are indeed 60 of these lines, spaced evenly to form an inconspicuous minute track. Once I understood this, the Iris became surprisingly easy to read — a quality for whichMING watches are not generally renowned.

Ending the dial’s color celebration is a large black disc at 6:00. This is a 30-minute counter for the chronograph. It actually includes two discs — an outer stationary disc with minute markings, and an inner rotating disc that functions as the chrono minute hand. The markings and hands are all cutouts, and there’s Super-LumiNova X1 luminescence underneath the discs for a layered effect.

I find this concept appealing in theory. However, in practice, it’s my least favorite feature of the watch. The cutouts on the dial are very small, particularly the one serving as the minute hand. Because of this, the chronograph is quite hard to read, and the luminescence beneath is barely visible. My sample was a prototype, though, so it’s possible—and likely—that the final production models will be easier to read.

Moving on to the case, there is, once more, a great deal happening. The most noticeable element is the crown. It is positioned on the left side of the case, marking this as MING’s first-everdestro watch. Additionally, the crown features a pusher for the monopusher chronograph. The crown is quite large and highly grippy, with deep grooves that make it simple to wind the manual-wind movement. Considering its size, which is further increased by the presence of the chronograph pusher, I was very pleased it was located on the left side of the case, as I believe it would be damaging to the hand if it were on the right side.

The next major change can be seen in the lugs. MING is introducing what it calls its fifth-generation design language with the Iris, and the lugs are the most noticeable example of this new approach. They include an Art Deco-inspired layered design, where each lug has three overlapping sections that each spread out to resembleMING’s distinctive flying blade treads.

I’m not entirely certain how I feel about the lugs. They are truly remarkable to look at, featuring exceptional craftsmanship — each component is polished on the top and finished with a brushed texture on the sides — and they have a striking appearance that immediately captures attention. I mean, how often do we really focus on a watch’s lugs? That’s precisely why I’m conflicted. To me, the lugs seem to be overdoing it a bit. I believe the timepiece already has plenty going on with its unique dial and the distinctive monopusher crown, so the bold lugs feel like an excess.

Then again, my wife mentioned that if the Iris were crafted by someone other than MING, I would really appreciate the lugs. And I believe she’s correct. MING is one of my favorite brands, and I enjoy the brand’s more understated yet intriguing flying lugs that have been featured on nearly all of its previous models. The new Art Deco lugs are remarkable, but I hope their introduction doesn’t signal the end of the simpler flying lug, as they seem like too big of a shift for me.

The stainless steel case measures 40mm, making it one of the few MING watches to ever exceed the 39mm mark. The larger size works well with the watch, and I still found it very comfortable to wear. It lies flat on the wrist, particularly when combined with the included MING Universal Bracelet. Although this is not a new feature for the brand, it was my first encounter with MING’s bracelet, and I really enjoyed it. It is smooth, elegant, and incredibly comfortable, with the hidden clasp offering a distinctive and appealing way to include a butterfly clasp.

The bracelet features a striking and elegant Iris design. The watch is primarily polished and highly noticeable, with the mirror-polished bracelet enhancing its appeal even further. For a more understated appearance, MING provides a Jean Rousseau goat leather strap with Alcantara padding. It’s very comfortable and upscale, although the watch feels more weighted on the strap. The strap also helps the dial to be more prominent, as it is truly the highlight of the Iris.

Inside the timepiece is a new mechanism for MING, representing another significant achievement for the brand.Earlier chronographs from the brandhave used premium movements and can cost tens of thousands of dollars. MING aimed to develop a more affordable monopusher, so the brand collaborated with Sellita to design the exclusive-for-MING destro Cal. SW562 movement. It features a custom finish, including a 4N gold-plated 3/4 plate, and helps ensure the Iris is priced well under $10,000.

One last thing I’d like to address, as this is a MING after all, is the Iris’s lume. The hands, including the central chronograph hand, are coated with Super-LumiNova X1. Similarly, the sandwich-style markings on the chronograph subdials are also filled with it. The hour markers, however, are engraved on the bottom side of the crystal and filled withMING’s exclusive Polar White luminous material.

I was eager to view MING’s Polar White lume in person after it first appeared on the Minimalist, and it doesn’t let me down. Although it doesn’t shine as intensely as the Super-LumiNova on the hands, it is still clearly visible in the dark, and its white glow creates a strange, ghostly appearance that is different from any lume I have seen before. Additionally, it is only available with MING (and is even blended by Ming personally), which is a notable achievement for this small independent brand.

Pricing and availability

The Iris is significantly easier to access compared to MING’s earlier chronographs, but I wouldn’t consider it a budget-friendly timepiece. This is very much a luxury watch; it comes with a price tag of CHF 6,250 before any taxes.tariff watchers, keep in mind), which as of this writing equals approximately $7,775. That’s over aOmega Speedmaster with a bracelet.

But it’s an incredibly remarkable timepiece, even though I’m not entirely certain about some of the design decisions. If you’re a fan, the 57.04 Iris will be available from MING starting tomorrow and is restricted to 100 units.